Every year just before June/1, the entire ecosystem of Western Ghats awakens and prepares for the annual ritual, recurring since time immemorial. It’s not an ordinary awakening rather, a coordinated plan spanning over preceding months to time certain life enhancing events coincide with the arrival of a major geographical phenomena. Animals know this instinctively and humans know it like they knew their parent’s names. Reptiles and mammals plan the arrival of their offspring to overlap with this mystical phenomenon and humans welcome its arrival with a huge sigh. Every living specimen within the range of Western Ghats spring to action and capitalize on the bounty of this spectacular season, experienced no where else on this planet. Amphibians begin their months long indulgence, reptiles begin their months long feasting, mammals begin their months long “abundance induced” indolence and humans begin their months long “altered life”. Humans aren’t isolated and as a matter of fact, they are the biggest victim and beneficiary of this 4 month annual rendezvous. Starting slowly from the tip of Indian peninsula, the geographical system engulfs, gradually, over a period of 4 months the entire subcontinent to leave it drenched, battered, frightened and rejuvenated as it fades towards the end of September. Kerala sees first, every year, her birth and is also the first to receive the benefits of its life enhancing capabilities. The entire Western Ghats are invaded in a matter of weeks and this is when mankind witnesses one of the stupendous dramas of Mother Nature. The entire region is drenched, day and night, trees are striking green and mist clasps hand with clouds to replicate a romantic bedroom. Any human being, not a native, would easily have their eyes trickle with tears on the first sight and it’s in this capability, SW monsoon’s charismatic personality wins hands down. The Ghats overflow with hydropower and the associated agents, erosion/ power generation/ landscape change/ ecological damage etc, all accelerate as under a dose of powerful steroid. Humans and animals watch, wait and wonder until it’s all over and until they could do something. The great Indian plains and the south facing slopes of the Himalayas are next on the yearly agenda of this mammoth phenomenon. They are shown no mercy as well and life is turned up-side down and confined to interiors till the retreat happens. At the end, it’s all about pain and gain – India’s growth rate is determined by the success of this inevitable event and so is, the natural disaster induced damage to life and property. There’s both smile and sorrow at the end and this itself testifies to the powerful influence with which it has been grasping the Indian economy for centuries. This event is none other than the universal term – South West Monsoon – a product of the reversal in direction of south east trade winds as they cross the equator into northern hemisphere. It was with an intention of investigating how this years quota would be executed and how the signs are at the point of strike, I embarked on a 700 Kms long trip towards the tip of Indian peninsula with my gang of friends, and it didn’t turn the worse upon me.
The signs on life ahead were speculative at this point of my life line. Things were moving fast, scenarios were changing against my will and a little bit of frustration creeping in often. Need for essentials were at their threshold and I was struggling hard to keep things sane. No one could be a master of their instincts, but controlling them is what keeps us away from being a law breaker. Subjects of interest, not part of your career enhancement, help vent out piled up pressure and its tickling to think these subjects of interest could only be funded, sustained and complemented with an aggressive career. It’s a tough delicate balance then, a balance which could see us smashed on either of the sides should we incline on one of them for much longer than instinctively tolerable. I was beginning to see my fall, on the side my career stood and it was only a friend’s wedding that restored the lost balance. I now knew there was a dawn but still, there was persistent pressure and that itself was a thrust to launch myself into a weekend of fun with my impeccable friends. Making things worse, I was moving into a new home and there was the third dimension now to transform my act from balancing to juggling. After days of meticulous control, I felt relieved like never before when I bid good bye to office and rushed home to pack up and catch the next available train to land on the long platform of Chengalpattu station, gracing the shores of Kulavai Lake. It was a beautiful summer evening - hot, sticky, energy killing sun playing hide and seek with the clouds pulled in by the heat induced low pressure, the uncertainty induced by my missing of the connecting suburban train, my fabulous idea of catching the general coach of another long distance train and getting crushed by the manic weekend rush etc all added to the fabulous mood I was in. It was a race against time and it was only when I was unintentionally thrown out on the platform facing the brimming Kulavai lake at 18:00 Hrs, I had a sigh of relief and walked slowly towards the shelter. My friends, 6 of them, joined a little later and thereafter it was a beautiful wait for our south bound express as the breeze picked up moisture from the adjacent lake and cooled our red hot bodies. Its after 8 years Iam doing a train journey and the reasons were obvious for me to get hasty and excited as the long blue train chucked its way along the lake shore like a serpent, slowly and cautiously, through a beautiful arc formation. It was a memorable ride once into the coach and I was watching the high speed traffic over the adjacent NH45, as I would have been watched during those innumerable preceding trips. That was the night when I had the most fearsome sleep ever, as the massive coach growled and wobbled over the track’s imperfections. It was passed through with occasional mid night blinks, particularly when a train passed by in the opposite direction at > 110 Kmph, and the dawn emerged faster than expected. When I looked out for the signs it was already obvious SW monsoon had set in well, atleast if not robust and it was a soothing effect when I set my foot out on the southern most “Major” city of India. The feeling of Kerala being just 60 Kms across only added to the existing ecstasy and the extinct emotions.
To me, friends come next to parents in the “most important peoples of my life” list and the fact that I was walking with 6 of the best under the fragile early morning drizzle inscribed an inerasable memory. Raj, Saravanan, Mahindra, Suruli, Murali and Jai were those 6 and I was along with them to shower blessings on one of their team-mate’s wedding. Nagercoil was wet and the sun was slowly emerging to dry her up and prepare the surroundings for our much talked about trekking into the woods, 25 Kms north and bordering the Kalakkad Mundanthurai Tiger reserve. Despite the long journey there wasn’t a hint of exhaustion, consequent of the comfortable sleeper coach, and we were ready in a couple of hours to embark on the much anticipated hike up into Kalikesam, in the Keeriparai range forest. An apple green GM Tavera was arranged to do the pick-up-drop chores and as an added bonus, we were shared on the fact that Raj had a handful of friends here. The Tavera carried all 7 seven of us with no sign of stress and her soft springs damped well over the rain washed roads of Nagercoil. Influence of Kerala was apparent and the District branch office of Communist political party were we had to halt to pick up Jagan reinforced my belief. Jagan was one of the close associates of Raj and had a good knowledge of the local relief, which was much needed for our exploration. Adding him and the driver the Tavera took off without a hint of hesitation over the rugged country roads, into the woods, up in the Ghats. Nagercoil was fabulously green with Malayalam and Christianity dominating the local language and religion respectively. I was sitting in the last bench and surprised by the pliant ride Tavera was offering as the road was piercing through the Ghats to take us into the action zone. I was also beginning to think on the fact that I was the odd man out in this fabulous gang when the question was asked – are you married?? Years have rolled by and Iam still feeling I have decades ahead to fulfill my desires, ambitions and responsibilities. I have always been an easy character, as easy as chewing a gum and the consequences have been disappointing. Iam reaching destinations which my friends have passed years back and it’s a feeling of fighting from behind and emerging at the top. With a bit of fear on future, I got out from the vehicle to have a stretch when we were frisked by the Keeriparai range DFO ranger. Few words of concern for those planning to visit this rugged beauty – get your provisions in the town, carry a spare clothing, wear a rugged footwear, refrain from carrying liquor, exercise the highest caution and have that basic responsibility of carrying back all those scrap you carried in. The road to Kalikesam passes through tranquilizing rubber estates and it would be an erotic feeling to even watch your friend smoke out a cigar as the sky alternates between darkness and brightness with the monsoon clouds busy crossing the region. I was beginning to indulge in my passion as the nature and friends posed with enthusiasm and I was completely made ignorant of the fact that what lay inside was much faster than my camera could handle. It was the beginning of my very big disappointment……
The name Kalikesam has its origins in the fact that there’s a temple dedicated to Hindu deity, Mother Kali, on the banks of this violent white water stream. Legend says Mother Kali likes human blood and it’s been a norm among the groups of people visiting this place to either loose one among them to the violent stream or inherit a violent injury as complement. I am one among those small group of people who don’t believe in Idol worship rather, fear conscience. I showed a deaf ear to the local’s warning and walked ahead with a wide shoulder and a pumped up chest to take on her at full might, only to be humbled at the very beginning of the trail. She was flowing with a turbulent velocity and the numerous sink holes beneath her “Gorgeous white water” added to the much talked about death factor. Experience helps and my numerous attempts in Uballamadugu, Andhra Pradesh, till I conquered the final falls gave a boost of confidence. The first few steps into the violent stream were doubtful and only when I reached the middle of the course did I realize I have gained the wrong confidence by comparing rat with an elephant. Kalikesam is atleast 10 times larger in terms of velocity and hydro content and it was an absurd idea to compare her with Uballamadugu. DSLR camera on one hand and the other hand busy doing the balancing act, the collapse was imminent in few seconds. I stood without a motion looking at the ferocious velocity and thinking, how powerful water could be given the gradient and the content. With a well timed helping hand from one of my friend who had reached the opposite bank, I managed to emerge with all products intact – DSLR, Mobile phone and the wallet – three things which I consider as vital in any of my jaunts. Now did begin the real hike, wild and wonderful, ecstatic and exhausting, fun and fearful, all in a combination of a lethal cocktail waiting to bring one or two of us down should we miss a blink of concentration. The output in Kalikesam stream is determined by the amount of rain in its catchment area up above in the Ghats, the mysterious Upper Kodayar, and the fact that SW monsoon has established itself over the southern fringes was a news good enough to proceed with extreme caution, for Kalikesam is known for its life plucking flash floods. All of my friends settled in a private corner with a bottle of Glenfidich, born 12 years ago, as I decided to explore the upper tracts with my dear friend Saravanan. The going was tough and the dense vegetation provided no space to escape the wrath of the massive outflow. I was forced to cling to the slippery rocks and walk slowly along the banks, which itself were overflowed with abdomen high water, as my camera was expecting a death sentence any second. Saravanan called it a day as we emerged out of an underwater cave and I did the same after covering 20 meters from where he did so. It was extremely fearful to venture ahead alone and the occasional sudden drizzle increased the flood. It was quick retreat thereafter and I was making the same mistake as always, panicking under fear. The fact that the upper reaches would be more heavenly and could lead to a small settlement by the name “Kaduva Pori” meaning Tiger trap made me retreat with hesitation and disappointment. Helpless, I quietly ended up the beautiful trip with fabulous sea food from Jagan’s home and some memorable photo shots. It was a tiring drive towards the tip of the peninsula thereafter, and my heart was pounding as I was about to meet someone I’ve only read and Heared about all my life and who had a prominent influence on the Indian subcontinent.
She’s none other than the 3rd largest ocean in the world, the Indian Ocean, the divine place where people from all over the country throng to witness the magical sunset and dip their foot where the waters of Bay of Bengal and Arabian sea merge with their mother, phew we humans have even demarcated boundaries for the universal solvent which never contains itself and flows at its will. But save my word, she’s a real divine – to me, she was like a women dedicated to god sitting and smiling with a saint like composure. All that raw power, controlled and contained, only to be unleashed when Mama gets angry. The massive concrete/ steel bridge ripped open and thrown away like a Frisbee with no concern at all, brought back the horrible memories of the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami. How powerful she could have been then? How merciless she could have been then? Then is it all for a purpose? A pre-written destiny? With many unanswered questions, I walked back to the car after staring at the most powerful emptiness and vastness I had ever looked into in the past. It was gripping to leave her behind and those few minutes taught how she could influence a disturbed man to walk into her, to never return. Evening was falling in and the hot coffee offered a good company to chat about the day’s happenings. It was interesting, and we wanted to transform the discussion from interesting to enlightening and the only two ways to achieve that were - be a saint or act a saint. The first option ruled out, we went in search of that potent medicine which could induce instant enlightenment and your assumption is right, Liquor is what we went in search off and it was found with ease. The night melted slowly, fueled by interesting topics, and it was a seamless transition into the temporary state of death, as the heart was doing it duty it has been doing since we were born and destined to do till we are blessed to breath. The next morning was seen with a severe hatred and the reason that our friend “Maddy” was about to tie the knot diluted the frustration. The ceremony was over soon and our diluted frustration was fueled again by the news that all south bound trains were cancelled due to an attempted sabotage. The signs were bad and I was beginning to wonder how the 700 Kms ahead could be traversed without a tiring effort. Raj and Jagan went in search of an alternative as I ploughed my face into the pillow and began to explore how the signs were on various fronts – The impending journey, the just started south west monsoon and my life ahead. First one was addressed when Raj called and informed of tickets he managed to purchase for a Volvo coach, the second one would be addressed in next few months and the Indian meteorological department has given a healthy projection on it and the last one?? The signs on this were extremely speculative – I wasn’t able to read them or understand them and they were projecting mixed feedbacks – The thought that Iam still making new friends and having fun with them as I did when I was 10 years old, despite the fact that I have already crossed the first four years of the second quarter of a normal human life span, produced a priceless satisfaction. But the fact that I still got miles ahead to catch up with rest of them and get assimilated with the normal life style produced a meaningful grin on my 29 year old face. It was time to leave and time to enter the pressure zone - Bid good bye to friends and savored a bottle of Bacardi before getting into the freshness of the inter city Volvo coach. The ruthless engine thrust us at an unwanted pace and I was soon asleep under the comfort of the thick blanket, though Raj had an additional comfort offered by his favorite liquor mixed in the cola bottle. The morning came much earlier than expected and the Mobiles began to ring and beep with those routine messages – are you coming to office today? Are the parts ready? Has the consignment been cleared at customs? Has the mold been established at Vendor? Has the quality approved? Has the finance approved? Is there raw material coverage, bins ready? Phew…..the signs are obvious and it’s none other than – run, keep running. Atleast till you save enough to sit and gasp…..
Parameters –
Route-Chennai-Tiruchi-Madurai-Thirunelveli-Nagercoil-kalikesam
Best time to Visit – July-sep, when the region gets copious inflow up from the Ghats and a little friendly, Oct-Dec, when the region is flooded to brim by the NE monsoon and this the most dangerous period to visit.
Specialties – Absolute privacy and wilderness, “do what you want but at its cost” attitude, terrific white water to jump into.
What you should do – Try to trek up the trail and reach Kaduva Pori, locate a Python, attempt creative shots with your camera over the wild white water.
Don’t forget – Your camera, packed food, atleast 3 for company, to exercise the highest caution, swim to your content, to avoid liquor, to return without an injury and bring back all that you took in.
