LIFE'S A TRAVEL AND MEMORIES, THE PROOF!

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Tuesday, March 28, 2017

TADOBA, THE TALE, FEB-2017


8 quick years and 12 national parks later, I get my “one of the most desired and cherished” dream translated into reality. Finding him, the Daniel Craig of Indian forests, was never an easy task as he would melt away into the depths of the dreamy forests. His eyes are so tranquilizing that you will go speechless the first time, and his presence so powerful; that everyone around will go mute forever. No wonder, he’s the world’s most charismatic killing machine…

Now begins the photo essay, the description for each photo is the one below it…


The first glimpse of Tadoba Tiger reserve wasn’t inviting. It was a sweltering, hopeless, dehydrating noon and I very well knew the road to the world’s most charismatic cat wasn’t going to be easy, despite my years of wait and sustained love for it. The road ahead seemed endless and merciless, as I sat on the open top jeep with the heat of the day trying to penetrate my balaclava…


Then, this tree came up our way pumping in enthusiasm in the form of logic and that was hope. Even under the most demanding of circumstances, when everything around had lost life, this single tree gleamed with “hope” and “dreams” and this is from where I restored my body language to that of a “Tiger” hunter…


First sighting of the trip was an Indian Roller, which is also the state bird of Karnataka. It’s an irony that after years of travel across Karnataka, I got my first proper shot of this bird in Maharashtra. A peculiar character of this bird, that I had noticed, is; it doesn’t get frightened by your presence and poses for your shots. I saw this tendency in another Roller bird during my visit to Kaziranga few months back…


Sentry of Indian forests perched over the canopy, on a keen lookout for potential dangers from the distant bushes. Langurs play a crucial role in exposing the cover of predators and thus significantly helping the herbivores to make that critical, timely flight to keep their lives intact. Nevertheless, the raw power, evolutionary skills and a hungry tummy make the predators win against all odds…


A mugger crocodile was caught basking on a small island. This action helps the croc to regulate its body temperature, reduce fungal infection and also increase its metabolic rate. Being cold blooded, reptiles don’t need much food to survive. The herbivores seem to understand their mood, and they weren’t frightened to venture into the water for a drink, even as these massive reptiles lay fully exposed nearby…


It’s a hard day at office, every day, every hour, for these inhabitants of the forest. Nothing comes easy and every single grass and every single drop is hard earned. Watching them for long, could drive you to the heights of guilt as you begin to feel many arguments running across your conscience. In the forest every single creature is stronger than you, or what you believed…


The serene Tadoba Lake and this is the beauty of Tadoba Tiger reserve. This lake is gorgeous and active, particularly at dawn and dusk, as many animals from different walks of their society congregate here for a drink, or, maybe for a relaxing walk along the banks. But it needs to be noted, it is also the playground where many of the hunts are composed by the seasoned predators of this region…


A harsh preview of the approaching summer in central India. Summers in Vidharbha, a geographical region in eastern Maharashtra, are unforgiving and something even as early as a February noon squeezed the last drop of moisture from my body. At the end of this safari, my respect for the animals of this region amplified and I stood under a shower of cold water, back in the resort, for more than an hour. However, the nights and early mornings were abnormally cold…


An exhausted Chital along the banks of Tadoba Lake, poor guy. His horns were attractive that I spent few minutes with him before moving on. Tadoba Lake is a savior for tired and travelling animals and protects them with shade and water…


Patience is critical, more so when your home is the “wild”. Everyone here needs to adopt “patience” as their most potent weapon and patience will get everything that they want. Food, mate, territory and life, all revolve around one word here and it’s also the word that humans hate the most. But it was startling to observe, nature never loses it…


Loneliness is sad, or does it appear so? This loner made me to stop the Jeep and glance at him for a long time, for he seemed to be desperate for a company. The few moments I spent in front of him seemed to make my conscience happy, if not him…


Look at his eyes. He may seem to be engrossed in serious grazing, but his eyes tell it all with its savage alertness and impeccable sharpness. Sambhars are a favorite for Tigers, and being the favorite here attracts unwanted attention that could take the life out in a single swipe…


When you ensure your presence consumes only what that is precisely needed, even when nature is in excess, that is when you have begun to respect her. When you begin to ensure to conserve her, even when she's not needed for "you", that is when you have begun to love her. If greed is humane, destruction follows. Live unnoticed and, go away undisturbed. A pair of Sambhars having their evening sips, with the least interruption to nature…


In a landscape like this; it's easy to hide, it's easy to escape. But at the same time, it's easy to stalk; it's easy to kill. A spotted male deer cautiously scanning the edge of grassland before making the next move. It potentially could be his last, if his instincts went wrong at that moment...


The climax of this trip, the climax of my search over the past 8 years across the sub-continent. Like during any of the previous safaris I was hopeless this time too; as we drove through the dust left behind by the many of the safari jeeps that were wandering in search of the biggie. At one particular junction, when we were wondering which road will lead us to the big cat, there was a massive congregation of safari jeeps on the road that went north. This congregation is a legendary behavior unique to India forests, wherein everyone races towards a “potential” spot where the big cat is expected to make its appearance. But in this case it was luck at 150% of its performance, as a big male was taking its afternoon nap right on the middle of the road and undeterred by the extraordinary commotion happening around its presence…


After a long wait, disturbed, the gorgeous and budding male woke up from his nap and threw a “chilling” stare at our Jeep. This was the moment I realized that, if there was a “beast” that had the capability to be gorgeous, it was this, the Tiger. Nothing comes close to this guy’s personality, if he wants to be cute, he can and if he wants to terrorize, he can too. Those few minutes when he threw a stare and decided to give way for us, were the moments I was dreaming of and I never imagined such an intense encounter would be the climax of that dream…


And now it was clear, he wanted to be left alone and he displayed that deliberately through his sizzling canines. Man, he was a beautiful male in his prime and the years ahead will seem him in full glory when he would be the dominant “prince” expelling his opponents only with a stare, and rarely, through a swipe. It was now time for us to leave, and to leave him the space he was desperate for…


The forests of Vidharbha region were gorgeous even when they were bone dry, and just how beautiful they would transform during the monsoons would never be seen, at least by the common man like me, for these tracts would be sealed by the department of forests when the monsoon winds hit this region by end of June, every year…


The end of winter and onset of summer is a beautiful transition, as this Langur explores the colorful canopy for potential food opportunities. We were lured by his alarm calls, maybe he saw something in the distant bushes, but our wait didn’t reward us except for this shot of the guy, who was also the reason for us to be there…


A family of ducks spending a content and wholesome evening on the banks of Tadoba Lake. In the wild, contentment and priorities are very simple but still; they are also extremely challenging to be achieved as these birds and animals repeatedly taught me. Their needs are less complex, but how they get them in a sustained manner is the lesson we need to learn…


Wow, what a start to the morning safari as this Eagle perched atop a tree gave a splendid opportunity to the camera. She remained still for a long time, thus making the opportunity conducive to create a beautiful portrait of her without much stress. 400mm got me extremely closer to her…


As hot the days were, so cold were the dawns; so much so, that fingers commenced to burn when the open top Jeep gained speed through the Tadoba Andheri Tiger Reserve (TATR). When we stumbled upon this bull Gaur, it was a moment of “precision act” as the chill and the bull’s aggression to the slightest noise challenged me from getting that memorable shot. He was already gone, when I looked into the viewfinder the second time and that is all nature gives you…


A beautiful male Chital checking out for danger, before bending down for its next bite. Herbivores are extremely cautious, agile and unrelenting in these unforgiving landscapes and they do not know when the next attempt on their life would be. Nevertheless, they do not complain much…


With a 400mm lens this croc could be easily spotted, but for the naked eyes he’s a deadly predator lying as a perfect trap for those who are playful and unwary of the dangers that the serene Tadoba Lake harbors…


A male Sambhar at a famous waterhole inside the reserve. Tigers are known to frequent this waterhole, our guide knew it, and maybe; the Sambhar didn’t. For it seemed to enjoy the water at its disposal to beat the heat of the day…


This Kingfisher was furiously focusing on its next dive into a nearby water body, so much so, that it wasn’t bothered about my presence and the extended attempt to focus it through the dense vegetation. On such occasions, I prefer to use manual focus and completely depend on luck to ensure the subject remains calm and still until I have locked my ring…


A family of Langurs resting under the shade of a tree. At this moment our guide was investigating a massive footprint, that of a big male Tiger maybe, and I was enjoying the thrill of the “deadly silence” that prevailed all around us. Even the Langurs were incredibly quiet, provoking our instincts, but their relaxed presence on the ground made it clear that there weren’t a predator nearby. But both us and the Langurs could have been wrong, as the deadly cat is a master stalker and could have been right behind us, watching our moves with precision…


Muaaha to the cutest inhabitant of the TATR. As we were on a safari pathway, a mother Chital sped across the track, ahead of us, and the timing was such that her infant was restrained on the other side of the pathway. He was startled, and I just had 5-7 seconds to capture him on the camera before he fled in the opposite direction, away from his mother…


A Serpent Eagle firmly holding on to its dinner, a dead snake, right above us on the tree. The size of the snake became visible when the Eagle took off to a nearby tree to evade the accumulating tourists beneath her and that was the moment when there were huge gasps, thanks to the brilliant flight of the eagle with the serpent hanging down her claws. Events in nature are dramatic, though they occur naturally…


A male Sambhar checking out our presence before descending to the waterhole for his afternoon sip and dip. He had a female for company and she was waiting for his clearance maybe, and the discipline they exhibited in approaching the water was something that was meant to be learnt by heart…


And now she comes, as her hubby is already into the water, but still; she cautiously checks us out and our body moves. To our surprise, she was followed by a group of youngsters who played meticulously in the water as we sat inaudibly on the open top jeep and enjoyed their presence rather than disturbing them with the camera shutter. I didn’t shoot them…


No, don’t fall for it and I know what most of you are thinking about this picture. This isn’t a beautiful dawn with early morning mists overflowing over the grasslands, but; a sweltering noon that will make even the toughest of beasts to hide in the shade. What appears to be the mist is actually the dust propelled by safari jeeps, and I shot this as we were waiting under a shade trying our luck with a potential big cat crossing on the banks of the legendary Telia Lake…


This is the first time in life I saw this guy; he’s called “Nilgai”. He’s the largest Asian antelope and unique to the Indian subcontinent, often referred to as “blue bull”. We were waiting for the Tiger at a reclusive water hole, when this guy unexpectedly turned up and I was sure, he would have thought the same about us. He quickly disappeared into the bushes…


A male Chital scans the background before bending down for a drink. A sort of symbiotic relationship exists between Chital and birds, as most often I saw them together. The bird gives the alarm call and a free grooming, while the Chital offers a free ride and tasty bugs maybe. This was on the banks of the legendary Telia Lake…


A beautiful end to a safari, a beautiful end to our trip to Tadoba. Tadoba didn’t fail to impress us, and what we saw during this trip was just a fraction of the drama she holds within her depths. Patience and discipline will let anyone to witness those dramas, and go back with memoirs that will keep calling them back. Once you fall in love with Tadoba, it’s bound to exist for a life time…

Story ends here!

For me, the journey to Tadoba wasn't about the destination alone, but also, about the way I got there. I love Indian Railways, their old world ambience in particular, and the train journey from Chennai to Chandrapur was a nostalgic reminiscence of the first ever trip i undertook on this grand trunk route 14 years back while on my college tour. There was no much change in the way the trains were, and that is what helped to induce a strong surge to connect to my past. Tadoba, in a way, helped me to relive one of the finest moments of my life, which were the final few days of my college...

K.D

Friday, January 20, 2017

KAZIRANGA, THE OTHER SIDE OF LIFE, DEC-2016


1 week in the jungles, only 1 set of dress for that entire week, almost half a kilogram of accumulated fine dust in my hairs and body, 8 bone wrenching safaris and tremendous luck were part of this nostalgic trip to the lands of mighty Brahmaputra. The main agenda of this trip was to meet the endangered RHINO – if you go to Kaziranga, you can. But I wanted to get the shot of a wild bull Rhino up-close, like I saw it in my childhood cartoons…

Now begins the photo essay, the description for each photo is the one below it!


This is for which we went there, but something as close as this was completely unexpected. The moment I saw him amidst the distant grasses, I asked the jeep driver to turn off the ignition. He was a huge bull and the seconds I were waiting for him, with my right eye sweating through the Canon L series lens, seemed to never end. I had my heart beating at its peak when he emerged out of the grasses, running straight towards our jeep and those were the moments that defined the real purpose of this trip. This shot was one amongst the multiple ones which I shot of this bull Rhino…


A potential big cat hide out it seemed to be, and the sustained alarm calls from a male Sambhar influenced our instincts to remain there, quiet and hidden, for a significantly longer time. But nothing turned out, except for these gorgeous and leafless trees…


I love jungle tracts; they are mesmerizing, thrilling and invigorating. This was on an evening, and few moments from here we caught on to a thrilling elephant trail…


This is not the elephant which I mentioned about in the previous passage. He was yet another, one amongst the many we saw in this trip, cooling of under a lonely tree as the noon was giving way to the romantic north east dusk, which comes much early on a watch tuned to IST…


One of the big bullies of the north east, the endangered Asiatic Water Buffalo. He is notorious for chases, and as we exceeded his patience he stood and geared up for the chase. However, we made a quick move from there...


This was one of the many beautiful visuals that Kaziranga had in store. Apart from a telephoto lens, reserves like Kaziranga deserve a standard zoom or a wide angle prime and this scene reiterated that belief…


Wow, another one, a big bull. He was on an evening stroll along the banks of a lake, and seemed least bothered about our presence. We spent a very long time with this guy, and he was beautiful…


On a morning safari we disturb a herd of deer, busy with their morning drink on a partially dried up lake bed. Post monsoon, these areas will be submerged under depths of water that rage from the distant Brahmaputra river…


This guy was much far away than he appears to be in the photograph, and he imparted a huge thud on the wet ground with his powerful hoofs which was enough for us to make a flight from that location…


One of the many beautiful dusk we encountered in Kaziranga, and every day we will be the last to leave the confines of the reserve. We would wait until the last of the safari Jeep dusted past us, and then spend an out of the world “wild” quietness amongst the undisturbed grasslands of this vast reserve before we called it a day…


A joint family, after a long time…


On a freezing cold north Indian morning, a herd of water buffalo on a morning stroll along the banks of a lake. It was surprising that, they entered into the cold water few minutes later…


Our jeep, our protector, our transporter and our home, for the 1 week that we spent in the jungles…


A freezing cold morning and I fell in love with that chill, though I would struggle to wake up at 5 AM every day. Come on; it is a vacation…


A significantly cropped image, that helps to get close to this bird. I believe it’s a crane, and its pink legs were gorgeous…


Yet another evening, yet another view to sign off the day…


Yet another morning, yet another story to begin…


This guy emerged out of the bushes, on the bank of a small river, as we keenly observed his intimidating moves through the undergrowth perched atop our Jeep…


A first time view - Brahmaputra. I had studied so much about her, in school and during my preparations for the ICS exam, but nothing could explain her beauty more than being present there physically. The moments I stood on her massive banks and observed the distant emptiness, seemed to be that of my own funeral. Out of this world, more so as my first time with her was inside the depths of the Jungle and not in a crowded town…


Kaziranga is so vast, that sometimes landscapes could make up your day, should you miss all of the Rhinos, elephants and tigers…


As the sun sets in, creepers and crawlers emerge out of their homes. This monitor lizard was busty, but made a quick retreat when it learnt of our presence…


A safari Jeep dusts its way through the forest tract, as we were waiting at a “potential” spot for the elusive big cat. The Jeep went past, so did time, but never once the big cat…


This photo is a continuation of the third passage in this photo essay. We followed the elephant trail and caught up with this guy, we soon began to stalk him. He promptly deviated into the bushes and after sometime, it was an eye to eye moment. I sat frozen on the open jeep, as he beautifully posed for me and the Canon 5D Mark-3…


These pathways are extremely dangerous, as the tall elephant grasses provide copious cover to the beasts of this land. As you drive through, you are assured for a surprise…


Though big and powerful, Rhinos are usually shy and would quickly create a “distance” from you, should you catch them unaware. This guy made a quick retreat into the bushes after a very close encounter with our Jeep…


Man is a social animal, but when he sees something like this the “raw animal” in him wakes up. A flood plain, and that is an elevated anti-poaching tower. Elevation here is driven by the annual flooding of the mighty Brahmaputra and not by the hundreds of beasts that call this flood plain their home…


Chilly, sleepy, dreamy and Iam not fully awake, but still; aroused by the ambience…


Very beautiful and inviting, but dangerous. Jeeps are your best friend on this “hide and seek” terrain…


A beautiful couple, quietly doing away with their breakfast. Shot from atop a watch tower, it was an amazing vantage point to gather information about the movements happening around…


Dawn; and the mists clear, giving way to another day with another story. Dawn and dusk, particularly in national parks, induce intense emotions…


One of the many armed guards who accompanied us during this jaunt. They are your last chance when an eventuality meets you, unexpectedly…


Territorial instinct and better keep away even if you are on a Jeep. Sometimes, they hit very hard…


Even if you fall down, you won’t get hurt. So soft and inviting, you better hold your temptation and never get down from your vehicle. One of the many beautiful tracts that Kaziranga contains…


A tortoise panics upon seeing us. Poor creature, it was at the wrong place though. This was the only instance in the entire week that I got down from the jeep during our safaris, to lift up the naughty guy, put him up into the safety of the bushes and away from vehicles…


Loneliness, demonstrated in his eyes…


Confusing landscape, but stimulating. You could easily miss an animal here…


Appears to be nothing, but this is where I made the photo no 1 for this story. Pure Rhino and Elephant country this is, and you do not know when they will knock at your door…


Held with it loads of potential, enhanced by high intense alarm calls of a deer. But as always nature surprises more than it satisfies and we left this place with this picture alone…


A last second capture of the rear view of a fleeing Rhino, the mild shade on this photograph is the dust raised by his massive body as he ran past our Jeep…


A ghost? A statue? Nope, it’s a living Rhino in flesh and blood. And this time, nature satisfied us with a very close view…


An extremely lonely dawn, as we debited the permitted time perched atop our Gypsy waiting for an interesting event that never seemed to occur…


A thrilling dusk sets in, that will see many beasts coming out for their night hunt. For us, however, it was time to go back to the comfort of our resort 25 Kms away…


When untouched by humans, nature creates an art even with something as simple as this pathway…


Another art by the simple elements of nature…


A bull Rhino on its evening stroll, as water buffaloes wade through the sea of fresh and healthy grasses, fed by rich alluvium, in the darkening distance…


A beautiful end to one of the many safaris, and moments like it made our exit special and nostalgic…


Clouds making the best use of fading sunlight to demonstrate their beauty. I did acknowledge their show of might…


If you are lucky you could meet “them” right on the middle of this beautiful pathway, thus producing a priceless opportunity. But it wasn’t our day though…


Hey buddy, you are a kid. Beware of us, we said…


Hey you buddy, Iam his mom, said this mighty mother as she completely surprised us by emerging from the side. We were frozen, but shot multiple frames of her…


A single bird perched on the top of that distant tree, made the moment erupt with emotions as we were winding up for yet another day…


The clouds losing their formation and beauty, as the sun moves to the other side of the world…


Ahh, Luck! Right on the middle, right in front our jeep. Such moments overwrite the eventless hours that went past…


If you watch carefully, you can see a beautiful couple having an early dinner with setting sun playing the candle for them…


Oops, so massive this guy was that we didn’t dare to get close to him. The constraint with my lens, maximum optical zoom of 105 mm, crippled me from getting a beautiful shot. Low light further deteriorated the quality…


Northern dusk in winter arrive early, and they make you dreamy…


An evening, through the Jungle…


Rainless cloud, leafless tree, still; a nostalgic story…


Rhino bro having his evening brunch…


If you had noticed, this dead tree would have appeared multiple times through this photo essay. We mostly concluded our safaris, every day, around this single and lifeless tree. Every day I will try to make a story out of it, but this was the best of all…


This guy is powerless, but a culprit in thwarting most of the attempts by predators through his timely alarm calls. But sometimes, he himself will be the victim…


Time to sleep, but upon scanning carefully you could see loads of beasts spread over this vast flood plain…


A freezing cold north Indian dawn, just as I step out of my cottage for a morning safari. To have fun, you need to be disciplined and that’s lesson learnt…


A “close to the heart” departing shot for me, but I couldn’t capture the shivering old man sitting behind the fire. Thanks to an incorrect exposure setting, I missed the moment. But it was that miss, which established a longing connection with this region for me…

Story ends here!


KAZIRANGA SHOWED TO ME THE OTHER SIDE OF LIFE – A LIFE IN THE WILD – THERE’S NO CELEBRATION WHEN YOU ARE BORN, THERE’S NO ONE TO SUPPORT WHEN YOU LIVE AND THERE’S NO ONE TO CRY WHEN YOU DIE. LIFE GOES ON WITHOUT EMOTIONS, WITHOUT EGO, BUT; WITH LOTS OF ENERGY AND EVENTS. AND THAT IS WHAT MAKES A LIFE IN THE WILD, SO WILD…

K.D